shoaling breaking waves 中文意思是什麼
shoaling breaking waves
解釋
淺水破碎波-
As surface waves propagate from deep to shallow water, the wave will take series of transformation including shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection, breaking and energy dissipation due to the effect of topography and various hydraulic structures
波浪由深海向海岸傳播過程中,由於地形和水工建築物等因素的影響,將發生淺水變形、折射、繞射、反射、破碎以及能量耗散等波浪變形現象。
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